The joint team of Icefall Doctors and expedition operators has successfully completed route fixing up to Camp II on Mt. Everest, clearing the final obstacle that had delayed the start of the 2026 climbing season and left hundreds of climbers waiting at Everest Base Camp for nearly two weeks.
After opening the Khumbu Icefall route to Camp I on Monday morning, the team continued their work by fixing ropes along the Nuptse Face and ascending to Camp II before safely descending back to Base Camp.
According to officials at Base Camp, the route passed beneath a large hanging serac that had created major challenges for the route-opening team. To safely navigate this dangerous section, the team installed five ladders beneath the hanging serac.
Lakpa Sherpa, Expedition Team and Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOAN)’s field coordinator, confirmed that the season can now move forward as planned.
“Climbers will begin acclimatization rotations in the high camps, and logistics will be supplied to Camp II,” he said.
EOAN’s rope-fixing coordinator, Pemba Sherpa, stated that another team of experienced mountain guides will soon begin fixing the route from Camp II to the summit points of both Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse.
Similarly, EOAN’s Base Camp coordinator, Ang Babu Sherpa, said the team would depart for Camp II carrying the necessary logistics required for summit route fixing.
Delays Caused by Dangerous Hanging Serac
This development marks a major turning point in a climbing season that had been significantly delayed. A massive hanging serac had blocked a critical section of the Khumbu Icefall for nearly two weeks, preventing Icefall Doctors from placing ladders and ropes through one of the mountain’s most dangerous passages.
Last year, the route was opened by April 17, while this year’s route completion came eight days later, causing concern among climbers and expedition organizers.
With acclimatization rotations now beginning, EOAN’s summit route-fixing team can also start moving ropes, oxygen, tents, and other logistics above Camp II toward the higher camps.
Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse Climbers to Begin Movement
The route to Camp II passes through the Khumbu Icefall, across the Western Cwm, and up the Nuptse Face. A critical section for climbers attempting Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, and Mt. Nuptse.
This season, Nepal has issued permits for 425 climbers on Mt. Everest across 42 expedition teams, along with 111 climbers for Mt. Lhotse, making the route opening one of the most important milestones of the spring climbing season.
Concerns Over Season Extension Ease
During the delay, several contingency options were under discussion, including airlifting logistics directly to Camp II and extending the climbing season beyond the usual May 29 deadline.
Now that the route is fully open and acclimatization rotations are starting, the urgency behind those emergency plans has significantly reduced. However, no official confirmation has yet been issued regarding whether the proposed season extension has been formally canceled.
The successful route fixing to Camp II now signals the full start of the Everest 2026 spring climbing season, bringing renewed momentum and hope for climbers aiming for the world’s highest summit.
